To tallow or not to tallow

Certain foods stand out as political signifiers: You’re more likely to see Republicans at a steakhouse chowing down on a rare filet and less likely to see them at the local salad bar ordering a vegetarian greens and grains bowl. Democrats are more predisposed to their ice cream fix from Ben & Jerry’s or perhaps former President Joe Biden’s beloved Jeni’s. Post-2023, you’re less likely to see a Republican-coded figure drinking a Bud Light — unless it’s comedian Shane Gillis. 

There’s a new split emerging in the food world, and it’s one whose popularity you can credit to the “Make America Healthy Again” movement. The prominent members include “crunchy moms” and Health and Human Services Secretary Robert F. Kennedy Jr. This political chasm may be more “uber-health conscious vs. establishment” than “Republican vs. Democrat,” but the division remains. 

We’re talking about beef tallow. Fast-food chain Steak ‘n Shake went viral this week after it hosted Kennedy and Fox News’s Sean Hannity to celebrate the rollout of its beef tallow fries.

“We have made a commitment to remove seed oils from our restaurants,” says a note on the chain’s website located prominently under the section “Seed Oils.”

“Our fries, onion rings, and chicken tenders are now cooked in 100% beef tallow in our restaurants,” the note continues. “The beef tallow has no additives, preservatives, or chemicals.”

Beef tallow has become a popular cooking alternative to the dreaded “seed oils,” which are commonly used in fast-food restaurants (and at-home kitchens) and include canola, corn, or grapeseed oil.